Ghana Life: men’s dress
Ghana shares with many developing countries a situation where its indigenous culture has been overwhelmed by a flood of practices and lifestyles that were once called Western and are now international. Ghanaian culture is very rich, and in many areas it remains strong, but in the second half of the 20th century it struggled to survive in the area of clothing in general, and especially in men’s clothing. In this situation, one has to look beyond the cities and beyond the daily activities of work and the daily life of home, to find places and occasions where the glories of the past are still revealed.
In government ministries and business offices in Accra and Kumasi, well-tailored Western-style suits are the standard attire. Ties persist even where they have been abandoned in colder climates. This way of dressing has survived the age of the electric fan and has thrived in the age of air conditioning. When this class of costume ventures out of its temperature-controlled environment, it is often seen in light cotton tropical costumes, such as those worn by the old colonial masters. The lower-ranking men, who populate the offices, who serve as secretaries, typists, and accountants, uniformly wear open-necked cotton pants and shirts, while those who work outdoors as petty traders, artisans, and laborers have adopted universally the t-shirt as a complement. his long pants and rubber sandals (kyale wate).
Despite the tropical climate, shorts are relatively rare. Although shorts are part of the standard school uniform, they are dropped upon graduation. Some businessmen wear a version of the tropical suit with the bare knees and this is a fad that looks like it could gain popularity. Some farmers and day laborers expose not only their bare knees but also their bare back, in a situation induced by the sun and poverty; clothes that are not worn tend to stay fresh and clean longer. The ripped pants and faded t-shirt were almost certainly bought as foreign used clothing, Oboroni wawu (the white person has died or the men’s clothing dead), but they are still expensive for most people.
The traditional clothing of men in southern and central Ghana consists of a large cloth wrapped around the body and over the left shoulder in the manner of an ancient Greek or Roman toga. In cities, this dress is worn only at funerals and special ceremonies. It is not practical for strenuous activities as it has no fixation devices and constantly falls from the shoulder. Even when sitting for long periods at a funeral, users often tire of replacing the cloth and leave it folded on their laps. Undoubtedly, this was the reason why the fabric has been abandoned for everyday use, in favor of the shirt and pants.
Men’s fabrics are made from a wide variety of different materials, but real traditional clothing, the famous Kente fabric, is still the most prized, and most men aspire to own one. Woven in 4-inch (10-cm) strips on a narrow loom by the nimble fingers of young weavers, the finished fabric is 12 to 13 feet (3 meters) long. It is made up of 23 or 24 strips sewn together, giving a width of approximately 8 feet (2.4 meters) and a weight of approximately 7 pounds (3 kg). The original Ashanti Kenti is most commonly woven in bright primary colors like red, yellow, green, and blue in complex geometric patterns, each with a name and meaning. For example, one design was woven especially for Ghana’s first prime minister and president, Kwame Nkrumah, and another was created to celebrate a visit to Ghana by Queen Elizabeth II. Kente cloth is also produced by sheep weavers in the Volta region and Ewe Kente is distinguished by its more subdued colors and the use of pale greens, browns, and fauns.
The quality of a man’s clothing denotes his social status. The highest quality Kente fabric is called ‘double peak, double weave’ and it remains the most sought after status symbol at a cost far beyond the reach of the average man. In an attempt to provide a more affordable fabric, some of the simplest plain weave patterns are produced on wide looms in 3 foot (1 meter) wide strips. By requiring only three strips to sew together for a man’s fabric, the lowest cost is keeping the traditional dress in wider use. Much of the high-cost narrow-loom Kente fabric is sold to tourists in a variety of forms, such as bow ties and handbags.
The northern tribes of Ghana also have their traditional dress. In many cases, this consists of a long robe, called a Batakari, worn with long pants, all made of narrow loom with simple stripe patterns in muted pale grays and black. This dress is worn with a matching little round hat that folds down and knee-high leather boots. Other northern tribes have adopted the Arab dress of long white dresses and leather sandals. This mode of dress has proven to be more resistant to change and is seen by higher-status Northerners throughout Ghana. Those of lower status who must work hard for their daily bread have adopted pants and T-shirts even in the remote towns and villages of the north.
The clothing situation described above is mostly related to the late 20th century, but the new century and the new millennium have so far brought little change. Fashion, especially in clothing, can be subject to rapid change as restless youth strive to differentiate themselves from their ancestors. In the 1990s, there were signs that a serious fashion industry was developing in Accra, at first in women’s clothing, but in an age when boys are joining in on girls’ games, no doubt. new men’s fashions will follow. Hopefully the changes will affect everyday and recreational clothing and let the magnificent Kente fabric dominate the scene at every funeral.